P3sTE MK2 – BOM

BOM (last change: 06.11.2016)

(please report missing objects or failures, contact form at the end of the page)

frame/mechanics
1 P3steel frame V2.01 or v2.5
4 silicone damper for heatbed  check: http://scheuten.me/?p=670 ebay
2 smooth rods Y; d=8mm, Cf53 h6 tolerance, grinded surface, steel, hardened
length: v2.01 = 350mm; v2.5 = 350mm
ebay
2 smooth rods X, 380mm; d=8mm, Cf53 h6 tolerance, grinded surface, steel, hardened
length: v2.01 = 380mm; v2.5 = 390mm
ebay
2 smooth rods Z, 320mm; d=8mm, Cf53 h6 tolerance, grinded surface, steel, hardened
length: v2.01 = 320mm; 2.5 = 330
ebay
8 sinter bronze bearings length: 12mm; outer diameter 12mm; inner diameter 8mm ebay
4 linear bearings LM8UU ebay
drives:
2 pulley 20 teeth ebay
2m drive belt GT2 6mm width ebay
2 couplings for 5mm/5mm shaft ebay
1m threaded rod M5 (cut into 2 pieces)
2 brass nuts DIN 934 – M5 ebay
4 bearings MF 126 (with flange) ebay
4 stepper NEMA 17; 1,8°; 1,7A (for example ACT 17HS4417) Amazon or ebay
2 knurled nut DIN 466 – M5 ebay
2 bearings 625ZZ ebay
2 nuts DIN 985 – M5
compact bowden extruder:
1 stepper NEMA 17; 1,8°; 1,7A (for example ACT 17HS4417) Amazon or ebay
1 extruder drive gear MK8 for 1,75mm filament Amazon
1 bearing 625ZZ ebay
1 bearing 608ZZ ebay
2 springs 0,5 x 4,5 x 20 mm ebay
2 pushfits M5 x 4mm ebay
heatbed:
1 heatbed for example: MK3, 3mm aluminium Amazon
1 print surface MK3 size (for example: Buildtak, FR4 or carbon plate, blue tape, Kapton foil, …)

recommendation: Pertinax

Amazon
1 transfer glue 3M 468MP (8″x8″, better: 10″x10″) Amazon
hotend/cooling (V2):  (choose V2 or V3)
1 hotend E3Dv6 clone; 1,75mm, 0,4mm noozle, 3950 thermistor ebay 
1 COB LED 26x36mm
1 axial-fan 30x30mm; 12V (for example: Sunon HA30101V3-A99) ebay
2 axial-fans 40x40mm; 12V (for example: Sunon MB 40101V2-000U-A99) ebay
1 teflon tube 4x2mm (maybe delivered with hotend)
1 MPX plug 4 pole, green ebay
hotend/cooling (V3):  (choose V2 or V3)
1 hotend E3Dv6 clone; 1,75mm, 0,4mm noozle, 3950 thermistor ebay 
1 stepdown converter LM 2596 or similiar (only needed if radial blower needs 5V input voltage ) ebay
1 axial-fan 30x30mm; 12V (for example: Sunon HA30101V3-A99) ebay
2 radial-blower 35x35x10mm (search „3510 blower“) ebay
6 panhead screw DIN 7981 2,2 x 4,5 mm ebay
1 teflon tube 4x2mm (maybe delivered with hotend)
1 MPX plug 4 pole, green ebay
Elektrik/Elektronik
1 power supply 12V 25A 300W/350W
1 fan expansion for RAMPS 1.4 ebay
1 Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 ebay
1 SD-card Sandisk 16GB Class 10 or similar Amazon
1 LCD 2004 SmartLCD with adapter or 12864 fullgraphic LCD ebay or ebay
3 endstops Makerbot v1.2 style ebay
1 spring 0,5 x 4,5 x 20 mm (for Z-endstop trigger) ebay
1 arduino shield RAMPS 1.4 ebay
4 stepper driver Watterott, TMC2100 Watterott
4 heatsinks Watterott, 10x10x12,5 Watterott
1 socket IEC reichelt
2 switches Marquardt 1801 series reichelt
6m braided sleeving example: ViaBlue size S ebay
2 fans 40x40mm; 12V
(for example: Sunon HA40101V4-000U-999)
ebay 
3m wire black, 0,25mm“ ebay
3m wire red, 0,25mm“ ebay
3m wire blue, 0,25mm“ ebay
3m wire green, 0,25mm“ ebay
1m wire black, 1,5mm“
1m wire red, 1,5mm“
1m flat ribbon cabble 10pol., AWG28
6 crimpcontacts DuPont, 2 pole
3 crimpcontacts DuPont, 3 pole
5 crimpcontacts DuPont, 4 pole
3 PSK connector male, 2 pole
3 PSK connector female,  2 pol
0,5m shrink tubing 8mm, inner hot glue coating
0,5m shrink tubing 5mm, inner hot glue coating
0,5m shrink tubing 3mm, inner hot glue coating
20 zipties 100×2,5mm reichelt

 

63 Gedanken zu „P3sTE MK2 – BOM

  1. Kenneth Tan

    Dear Lars,
    Reading up on all the information for building a P3Steel all things keep pointing to your blog. Especially the choices you made in using and adapting the right parts.
    You posted your recent BOM and it’s more then helpful.
    Problem is there are no resources listed.
    I’d buy the right parts if I knew where to get them. Also I understand that often the total postage far outweighed the material costs.
    Could you please post a list of suppliers?
    There are several suppliers in Spain but I read differing opinions about their printed parts and they have limited info about the quality of the other mechanical parts.

    The setup I would like to buy is a 20×30 P3Steel.
    I’ve already purchased a Beaglebone Black with a Replicape. So that’s the basis for my electronics.
    Can you please offer some advice or even link to supplier(s)
    I live in Maastricht, close to the German border.

    Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      Hi Kenneth,

      i cannot / don’t want to share any resources. In this case your are on your own.
      I don’t want recommend any sources or shops.

      Don’t buy printed parts from spain. All kits i have seen have a really bad quality.

      I can help you sourcing the printed parts and the radial blower.

      You can find all other parts on ebay, ali.., …

      Antworten
  2. Kenneth Tan

    Yes, I already had a feeling you wanted to be independent in your recommendations.
    I’ve already ordered your printes paets from a reputable local printer.
    I’m foing to source the other important parts locally. I think it’s going to take some searching and convincing Afterwards I will posty sources for the Dutch builders.
    Only a few parts are going to be sourced from china. if any. This printer is about DIY build quality.
    I want to thank you for open sourcing your excellent parts amd knowledge.
    I’ll post my build if it’s done.

    Antworten
    1. Stephen Ludgate

      Hi Kenneth,

      I can be less impartial than Lars and give you some possible useful advice to you. I am currently sourcing all parts for the P3Steel and using Lars‘ Toolson edition as the benchmark for parts etc. Just need to order the frame and print the remaining parts (I have a Printrbot Simple 1405 which will print all parts apart from the LCD cover).

      To help you out with sourcing components – I buy a lot (a lot!!) from AliExpress. Getting a good supplier is hit and miss, but there are a few that stand out, and when you find one that has good shipping (consistently 2 weeks or less to the UK) you tend to stick to them despite if you source an item cheaper from another seller. My help to you is recommendations on sellers – until recently I really trusted and used seller A+A+A+ but my last order with them/him was terrible. One item was missing, two broke (Arduino Mega burnt out and fried my LCD controller!) and getting a refund on the parts was a one way conversation. I don’t use them anymore. Some suppliers that I do trust and have had several shipments of quality parts all shipped within 2 weeks are listed below:

      Geek World
      All ELECTRONICS MALL
      GREAT WALL Electronics Co., Ltd.
      DIYmall (has recently changed name so not used lately)

      Out of those, I have order most parts (ramps, heatbed, endstops etc) from Geek World and All ELECTRONICS MALL. I am not affiliated with them so can only give my experience with them! So far I am happy!

      I am spreading out the purchasing across several months so the printer „appears cheaper“ to me! Most parts I get from AliExpress are free shipping, so shipping costs are not an issue to worry about, for me – it’s sitting on my hands while I wait for all my parts to come in!!

      Best of luck!

      Steve

      Antworten
    2. Stephen Ludgate

      Hi Kenneth,

      I can be less impartial than Lars and give you some possible useful advice to you. I am currently sourcing all parts for the P3Steel and using Lars‘ Toolson edition as the benchmark for parts etc. Just need to order the frame and print the remaining parts (I have a Printrbot Simple 1405 which will print all parts apart from the LCD cover).

      To help you out with sourcing components – I buy a lot (a lot!!) from AliExpress. Getting a good supplier is hit and miss, but there are a few that stand out, and when you find one that has good shipping (consistently 2 weeks or less to the UK) you tend to stick to them despite if you source an item cheaper from another seller. My help to you is recommendations on sellers – until recently I really trusted and used seller A+A+A+ but my last order with them/him was terrible. One item was missing, two broke (Arduino Mega burnt out and fried my LCD controller!) and getting a refund on the parts was a one way conversation. I don’t use them anymore. Some suppliers that I do trust and have had several shipments of quality parts all shipped within 2 weeks are listed below:

      Geek World
      All ELECTRONICS MALL
      GREAT WALL Electronics Co., Ltd.
      DIYmall (has recently changed name so not used lately)

      Out of those, I have order most parts (ramps, heatbed, endstops etc) from Geek World and All ELECTRONICS MALL. I am not affiliated with them so can only give my experience with them! So far I am happy!

      I am spreading out the purchasing across several months so the printer „appears cheaper“ to me! Most parts I get from AliExpress are free shipping, so shipping costs are not an issue to worry about, for me – it’s sitting on my hands while I wait for all my parts to come in!!

      Best of luck!

      Steve

      Antworten
  3. Kenneth Tan

    Steve,

    thank you for your answer, but it doesn’t help me very much.

    I’m looking for specific parts supliers:
    1) P3Steel frame with 20×30 bed.
    2) All the mechanical parts (Rods, sinter bearings, nuts and bolts)
    Most of the electronics I’ve already bought, just need some endstops, motors and head.
    Most of those I can buy directly from E3d or local suppliers. Don’t mind paying a bit extra, i want only the good stuff. Actually I want to build a replica of the latest Toolson fork with a 20×30 bed.
    The small electronics part I’ll buy from ebay. going to start with mechanical endstops, but going to convert them to Hall sensors. I have a full tray of them lying around.
    Also the silicone bed corners are cool. So I need to find a local supplier of the correct silicone mix.
    Going for an thermocoupler in the E3dV6, so an extra converter board is also needed.

    But, in basic, I need some help with suppliers of quality parts for 1 & 2.
    If someone can post his/her experiences in buying these parts?

    Antworten
    1. Stephen Ludgate

      Hi Kenneth,

      You can buy all of 2) from eBay (or Ali, Amazon etc – whichever shopping channel you are comfortable with, most sellers sell on all these under different names so you are getting the same parts from the same place). I have got all my parts from AliExpress, carefully sourcing good quality parts. If you want to source them locally you may be best off with eBay and Amazon?

      Regarding 1) – the Prusa Steel frame seems to be elusive in terms of a guaranteed manufacturer, but the idea with this is you either 1 – have a steel laser cutter lying around (!!) or 2 – you approach a local steel works who can cut 3mm steel with a laser cutter. The DWG and DXL files that can be found on http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel_Vitamins are standard CAD files which are industry standard formats that laser cutters use. Most steel fabrication works will give you a quote to cut the pattern onto 3mm mild steel, or maybe even stainless or other grades. The cost is roughly based on amount of cutting needed – i.e. how far the laser has to travel to cut out the pattern.

      I am based in the UK, so there are a lot of local steel fabricators who have access or own laser cutting machines. I simply emailed them with the frame files (going with a 2.5 version) and asked for quotes. You should be looking around €60-120 I think for a frame (2.01/2.5) to be cut in 3mm mild steel? I am guessing the 20×30 frame is bigger?

      Antworten
  4. Kenneth Tan

    Hi Stephen,

    I’ve already drawn my own frame with my logo and both 20×20 and 20×30 beds.
    There are two estimates outstanding of local lasercutters for the cutting of the frame.
    One has already returned and is € 218 (ex taxes) wich is absurd for steel.
    Awaiting the other estimate for stainless steel and construction steel.

    I was looking for a frame supplier because cutting them in batches is much cheaper.
    But I couln’t find a supplier for the XL frame. So it’s very possible I’ll have it cut myself. With the additional shipping costs it will probable be in the same price range.

    Here’s the drawing I’ve made.
    http://kennethtan.nl/_Media/_Images/P3Ken_Jessie_20x20_20x30_bed.png
    The design should match the criteria needed for the Toolson upgrade.

    The other worry is getting the quality rods and bearings. Going to religiously follow the Toolson advice and use sinter bronze bearings.

    Still wondering why everyone builds with bowden feed while the general opinion is that direct feed is much better because of the continuous feed and fast retraction. Bowden is a more beautiful build, but isn’t direct feed better? The toolson is also based on bowden.

    Antworten
    1. Stephen Ludgate

      Hi Kenneth,

      Drawing looks great – you’re technically more capable than me! I saw the 20×30 uses 10mm rods, is this the case with this version or are you sticking with 8mm?

      I’m lazy and cheap, so going to build it with LM8UU bearings. But if I choose to upgrade to bronze bearings, it’s only the four y-axis clamps and the x carriage I need to print again, no big issue!

      I am still undecided which option to go down for Bowden or Direct. Bowden allows the „print head“ to be lighter and therefore you can get higher print speeds, less vibration and supposedly higher print quality. Think Ultimaker! Direct is easier and more reliable and with slower print speeds and a more solid frame (like the P3Steel) you can reduce possible vibration issues with a heavier print end going back and forth. Direct drive allows for more exotic filament and flexible filament to work more reliable and without issue. Agree that the Bowden just looks cool, and there is a lot of evidence to show that when it’s corectly set you get much better results. Check out Tech2C https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSiWot9tib8 who gives a direct video account of how he was so impressed with the overall quality improvements of his prints switching to Bowden on a Prusa (i3).

      But I think, with the modular design of the hot end and x-axis carriage, you could in theory build it as a Bowden, and have a Direct feed hotend built too, ready to swap out using the MPX connectors as Lars suggests. I think there would be some major amends to the Gcode to switch between Bowden and Direct, but curious if such a „hot swap“ system would be feasible – especially if you are a fan of printing flexible filaments.

      Still undecided, but will probably go down the Bowden route, it works well for Ultimaker (who now apparently can print with flexible filament…?!).

      Steve

      Antworten
    2. Johan Cloete

      Hi Stephen
      Your frame CAD layout is really great! IMO the best I have seen.
      1. Any chance of sharing the DXF or DWG file with me
      2. Will the upgraded P3steel – toolson edition parts all thit on this frame
      I would link to build the bigger 20×30 Bed version

      Antworten
      1. Stephen Ludgate

        Hi Johan,

        The frame is not mine, nor is this project, all credit needs to go to Lars S!

        The frame Lars uses is the 2.01 version. I am going to use the 2.5 version. You can find all versions and their CAD/DWG files here – http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel_Vitamins.

        The upgraded Toolson parts from Mk2 or Mk1 will work fine on the 2.01 and 2.5 frames as far as I know. I think the 3.0 and 4.0 frames are not supported as they differ a lot from the original Prusa designs… along with the 20×30 bed version too.

        Steve

        Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      Hi Steve,

      the screws/washers/nuts from mk1 should work in v2.

      My free time is very rare at the moment. That is why everybody has to wait for the mk2 screw list.

      I recommend to use DIN 912 M4x30 instead of DIN 912 M4x20.

      Regards

      Antworten
  5. Frank

    Hi,

    I’m looking forward to build the MK2 as my first 3d printer. Any news, when you are going to publish the screw list?

    By the way: Thanks for your great work.

    Frank

    Antworten
      1. Stephen Ludgate

        Great news! I’m currently on my way with the build after getting my frame cut – http://www.thingiverse.com/make:223490. But I think i’ve been able to gather all the info to get my nuts, bolts and screws in line.

        Are you ever going to put the designs onto Thingiverse, or have you fallen out of love with that site and the amount of comments/questions you get?

        Steve

        Antworten
      2. Jannis

        Hi Lars,
        first of all: Great work! I’m currently trying to build one as well.
        I’d like to ask if the screw list is available by now? I can’t find it anywhere.

        Jannis

        Antworten
  6. Matthieu

    Hi!

    First of all, thank for sharing your amazing work!

    So it’s been about 2 or 3 weeks that I read a lot on the internet to build my first printer, and decided to go with your design.

    A few questions to be sure I understand everything :
    – if I manage to find all the part in this bom, the screws in the mk1 list (+ some spare…) , print all the part in the zip file of the mk2, I have everything needed?
    – regarding the frame, I intend to use the 2.5 version, and a friend can laser cut it for me. Is it the best option, or is there an other frame even better available somewhere? Regarding the 20×30 or 20×20 version, it is only the heat bed that differ?
    – finally, I haven’t finish reviewing the software part, so I still need to read a lot. But basically, if I use the software for a classic prusa i3 steel, will I be OK? Or do I need specific configuration?

    Sorry if some question are a bit noobish :p

    Thanks a lot in advance!

    Matthieu

    Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      If you buy every item from list plus a lot of screws you should have 99% of what you need;)

      The originial 2.5 frame is very good. Go with the 20×20 size, it is the most rigid design.

      You can use the marlin, repetier or any other compatible firmware. If that is too much trouble for you use the pre configured firmware that i provided for the MK1 version.

      Antworten
  7. Max

    Hey Lars,
    Hey Steve,

    I’m currently planning my build of the P3Steel Toolson Mk2 – therefore I’m very interested in the list of the screws and so on. To bad that your beta testers didn’t give you any feeback!

    Steve, all of them would be very nice 😉

    Max

    Antworten
  8. Max

    Thanks guys, I’ll do that – Planned to fill up my M* size screws anyway. Thanks for the nice design Toolson and Steve, thanks for your nice build documentation!

    Max

    Antworten
  9. Matthieu

    Hello!,

    I’ve got a small question. i’m in the processing of sourcing the BOM, and can’t find easily (at a small price I mean :p) the bushing.

    The best I could find is this:
    https://fr.aliexpress.com/store/product/8mm-bearing-8mmx12mmx30mm-linear-graphite-copper-set-bearing-copper-bushing-oil-self-lubricating-bearing-JDB-8x12x30/834897_32706772476.html

    I’ve already ordered on this store, and they are fine, which is a plus.

    Anyway, do your 3D printed parts accept longuer bushing? It looks like yes, but i’d like to be sure. Also, do you think it could have a negative impact?

    Thanks!

    Matthieu

    Antworten
    1. Stephen Ludgate

      That is pretty cheap for a bushing (£0.77?). Anyhow – the design files only really allow for 12mm in length and 12mm in outer diameter (with an 8mm inner obviously). There are a lot of cheap 15mm length bushings, but I don’t think they would fit without amending the STL’s a little. Your 30mm length ones wont fit the printed parts.

      I got mine from AliExpress too – http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/mQBYfem2B which work out to be about £0.54 per bushing. And with 10 – you’ve got a couple spare for testing and other projects. They came in a ring box too – some kind of Customs „gift“ thing I think – very amusing!! 🙂

      Look up Tech2C on YouTube too – he experimented with longer bushings on his latest CoreXY machine to reduce binding and wobble on the carriage. Interesting watching. I may look into longer bushings , maybe just one long one rather than two small ones on the bottom of the x-axis hotend carriage to reduce drag and reduce binding more – just experimenting really?

      Steve

      Antworten
      1. Matthieu

        Hey 🙂

        I followed your link, but they don’t sell anymore… So i’ll update a bit the STL files to fit 15mm bushings. Looks like the easiest / cheapest solution 🙂

        Regarding long/short bushing, to be honnest i’ve no idea :p But it doesn’t look very complicated to try out 🙂

        Maybe a toolson mk3 🙂

        Antworten
  10. bitemyshinymetal

    Hello Toolson!

    Currently in the process of printing your parts to replace the stock ones.

    Any chance of getting source files for HotEnd and fans mount?
    I’d like to add a BLTouch holder and I really like your design.

    Thank you for all your hard work.

    Antworten
  11. Kolja

    Hey Lars,
    wow great work, thanks so much for sharing! Which material do you use for the printed parts? Is it the same as the one from the first version of the toolson? PETG?

    Antworten
  12. Stephan

    Hallo,
    ich beschäftige mich seit ein paar Tagen mit der Idee mir auch einen 3D-Drucker zu bauen. Diese Seite hat mir schon viel Starthilfe gegeben. Werde die Teileleiste ausprobieren und langsam anfangen mein Gerät zu bauen. Teile dann gerne meine Erfahrungen.

    Beste Grüße
    Stephan

    Antworten
      1. Stephan

        Hey Toolson,

        ich bin inzwischen soweit das ich erste Testdrucke machen kann. Hat zwar ewig gedauert weil ich zwischendrin zwar so meine Probleme hatte aber mit Hilfe deiner Anleitung, Recherchen im Netz und der Hilfe aus dem Reprap-Forum ist jetzt alles am Drucker funktional. Jetzt muss ich nur noch alles Kalibrieren und die besten Einstellungen finden.

        Als ich vor 3 Monaten gestartet bin wollte ich einfach nur einen Drucker bauen und habe keine Ahnung. Deswegen freue ich mich umso mehr über mein Ergebnis. Dank dir für das Teilen deines Wissens.

        Beste Grüße
        Stephan

        Antworten
  13. bitemyshinymetal

    Hello Toolson!

    One more question. I wired the 5v part cooling fans to D9 through LM2596 on RAMPs, but I can’t PWM them…how did you solve this? Should I wire them differently?

    Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      If you cannot PWM them you should wire them differently 😉

      Connect input + – of your stepdown to your psu.
      Connect output + of your stepdown to the + wire of your blowers.
      Input – of your stepdown remains unconnected.
      Connect the – wire of the blowers to your board (for example Ramps D9)

      Antworten
      1. Ianmcmill

        You say „Connect input + – of your stepdown to your psu.“
        but in the 3rd line you say: „input – of you stepdown remains unconnected.“

        Which is correct?

        Antworten
  14. va3rjy

    Disregard my previous issue regarding downloading MK2 source zip…I cleared my cookies and all is good.

    After weeks of reading I’ve chosen your design as my first attempt to build a printer. I think my biggest challenge will be to get the parts printed at a reasonable price and determine what part needs to be printed a certain way. This is all new to me and I’ll need to do more reading

    Thanks very much for sharing your design.

    Antworten
  15. va3rjy

    Yes it’s me. Thanks for your advice again. When I find some time I’ll build a spreadsheet and enter the quantities required and other info. I read somewhere that not all parts are printed solid. I’m trying to figure that out as well as the differences between materials PETG, ABS, PLA etc.

    Roman

    Antworten
    1. Stephen Ludgate

      I would not recommend PLA. PETG is the way to go – and if you are going down the route of 3D Hubs to get a local hub to print the parts – I would advise asking for PETG, 40% infill (Hex infill if they can) and three perimeters. Some of the tiny parts should be 100% infill, but if your Hub you choose isn’t too flexible a good 40% in PETG should be 90% reliable. And by then – you should have your own printer to use, just print off some backups… just in case!!

      Steve

      Antworten
  16. Alex

    hi, ich würde gerne wissen auf welchen lager durchmesser die MK2 X Achse ausgelegt ist sind es die lager mit 15 oder 16mm Außendurchmesser?

    Gruß

    Alex

    Antworten
  17. Alex

    Spricht eigentlich irgendetwas gegen trapezspindeln? ich habe diese noch von meinem Prusa übrig der jetzt umgebaut wird, haben die M5 gewindestangen irgend einen vorteil?

    Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      Die Trapezspindeln sind aufgrund des Durchmessers nicht kompatibel mit der MK2 X-Achse.

      Trapezspindeln in Kombination mit einer Anti-Wobble-Einrichtung sind nicht schlechtes, allerdings auch absolut nicht notwendig.
      Der einzigste Vorteil von Trapezgewindespindeln ist höhere Verfahrgeschwindigkeit der Z-Achse, ansonsten bringen die nichts was M5-Gewindestangen und Muttern für insgesamt 4€ nicht auch könnten.

      Antworten
  18. Dominik

    Hey Lars, vielen Dank für den Drucker. Ich bau gerade einen mit 200×300. Ich habe ein E3d clone gekauft und bei der Montage ist mir aufgefallen, dass die Heizpatrone sehr sehr nah an die Druckteile kommt. Habe mehrere angesehen, die ich zu Hause habe, sind aber alle gleich lang. Ist das bei deimem auch der Fall? Habei etwas Bedenken bei dem minimalen Abstand.

    Besten Dank und schöne Grüße
    Dominik

    Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      Es ist eng. Im laufe der Zeit werden sich die Teile mit Sicherheit etwas deformieren. Das ist aber nicht schlimm.

      Die E3D Heizpatrone der Clones ist meist etwas zu groß. Perfekt wird es mit einer etwas kürzeren Heizpatrone.

      Das passt schon.

      Antworten
  19. Malte

    Nabend Lars,
    vorab erst einmal meinen Respekt und Dank für deine Entwicklungsarbeit und Dokumentation!
    Nach langem Suchen und Hin-und-Her habe ich mich entschlossen einen RepRap Prusa i3 toolson zu bauen. Ich habe bereits einige Komponenten anhand der obigen BOM bestellt, jedoch bei dem Heizbett eine Rückfrage bzgl. Empfehlung Pertinax oder Silikon+Aluplatte. Wozu würdest du raten?
    Zudem konnte ich nirgends eine Quelle für die Kunststoffteile finden. Würdest du die Teile für mich drucken oder kannst mir jemanden nennen? Info gerne per Mail.
    Beste Grüße

    Antworten
    1. toolson Beitragsautor

      Ich setze im P3 nur noch MK3 Heizbetten mit Pertinaxbeschichtung ein.

      Preis/Gewicht/Haftung/Regenerierbarkeit ist einfach ungeschlagen.

      Antworten

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